Only Wolfgang Puck has the talent, brains, and audacity to situate an upscale restaurant serving Sino-Euro-Nipponese fare almost adjacent to his highly successful venue, Spago, which serves California-Italian-Franco-Asian cuisine. If fusion confusion besets, take heed. Spago is really a French restaurant using a lot of Asian ingredients (with pizzas thrown in just to bemuse and further confuse), while Chinois cooks Chinese with a certain Gallic flair. Just to keep you on your toes, Puck also installed a sushi bar, and an excellent one at that. Petty nationalism obviously has no place in his cult of culinary cross-pollination. Try the ethereal foie gras, followed by the sharply spiced Shanghai lobster, stir-fried string beans, and creamy rich green tea ice cream encased in a large (and definitely French) funnel-shaped Tuile cookie, an you'll see what this revolutionary cooking is all about. -- Las Vegas Life
